Eat like a local: Thornbury

Amy is a foodie through and through with hospo credentials and a knack for creative home cooking (just check out her Instagram). Her passion for food extends beyond the kitchen, and as vice president of Just Food she relentlessly advocates for a fairer food system. She loves to be in-the-know about the local food scene but is also mindful of restaurants who are all about community, sustainability and commensality.

Amy has lived northside since her arrival in Melbourne from the Macedon Ranges six years ago. Her longest stay was in Thornbury which she came to love, especially during Melbourne’s many lockdowns. She is happy that local groceries and takeaway meals have taken a backseat again to the much loved physical spaces of restaurants, cafes and bars

Where do you go for your morning coffee?

“I enjoy the smooth, creamy coffee at All Are Welcome, which is hard not to pair with a kouign-amann (a sweet cake from Breton made of laminated dough). Walking to the Thornbury store is always a nice treat for me and more convenient than its Northcote location. It’s housed in an old confectionary bakery with little signage, but once you’re inside the sleek benchtop display of sweet and savoury pastries lets you know you’ve arrived somewhere legit.

The staff are always lovely and make everyone feel welcome. All Are Welcome is great in the community too, bringing together other businesses to bake for aid or raise funds for good causes like supporting those affected by the war in Ukraine.”

Where would you go for brunch?

“Little Tienda is a fun venue on the eastern side of Thornbury. It has a Mexicana-take on brunch and cocktails, with enthusiastic staff as much a part of the experience as the funky decor, keep-it-local vibe and delicious food.

If I’m with friends I love sitting in the covered outdoor courtyard at the back, it has a great atmosphere. The front of the restaurant is a selling point too, it functions as a small grocery stocking local and artisanal products. Station Street doesn’t have much else of this calibre.

If taking brunch away is your thing, like I like to do, Little Tienda does this well too. I have fond memories of jumping in the car on a sleepy Sunday to go somewhere and stopping by Little Tienda first. I take so much satisfaction in filling up on bean burritos and house-made micheladas and margaritas.”

Bakery of choice?

“Since I just mentioned All Are Welcome swapping out my favourite bakery for my patisserie feels right. You’ve got to try Monticello’s, it’s a long-standing Italian cake and gelati shop that claims its ricotta cannoli is the best in Melbourne. I don’t disagree!

Monticello’s sweets are always in-tune with the major holiday celebrations and the display shelves are filled with Italian biscuits, cakes and gelati. I often find myself losing track of time in the shop chatting with John and waiting for Maria to fill my cannoli fresh from the ricotta out back. They are such lovely people. They have been there for over thirty years and the shop really feels like it. It’s old Thornbury, reflective of a time when many Greek and Italian immigrants were opening shops in the area.”

What’s your go-to spot for drinks after work?

“Capers is a relatively recent addition to the bar landscape, separating itself slightly from the more densely clustered bars at the top of High St near Preston.

It also stands out due to its retro fitout and lack of renovations, this place has great vibes and feels like an old school Greek cafe. The Greek specialty snacks on display and the late night coffee offerings only add to this atmosphere.

Capers is a great place to pop in for after-work drinks, but you may get sucked in by the live music and stay through until after supper. Come for an ouzo and then stay for a bowl of something hearty. This is exactly how I want to unwind after work.”

Thornbury’s secret gem is…

“I’m not sure if it’s that secret anymore, it definitely isn’t to Thornburians. But Rat the Cafe is definitely a little gem and ‘hidden’ because of its geographical location. Rat is tucked away on the corner of Wales St away from the density of the Thornbury High St hospo strip. Rat is a local neighbourhood institution with long-running staff members who make you feel like you’re being welcomed into their living room.

Take a seat outdoors under a big tree or inside against the sunny brick wall of the cafe. The coffee here is excellent and the food menu is no more than five dishes long and reflects a commitment to seasonality. The menu changes with the availability of produce and this feels more ‘organic’ than other restaurants. Another thing I like about Rat is their consistency, it never disappoints. Try a morning egg sandwich that’s perfectly toasted, with an egg and sauce doing just the right amount of oozing. On the weekends go early or certain dishes could sell out. I could spend the whole day here.”

Thornbury is a great place to eat because…

“It has real charm and personality! It doesn’t carry that Northcote label and so feels naturally smaller, with more independent businesses that have funny characters as owners or managers. It maintains that vibe as you see less crowds from deeper in the city – it’s even common for people to say “I’m not going as far as Thornbury for that dinner!”

How unlucky for those people! Come to Thornbury or miss out on the great venues I’ve mentioned. In fact there are so many others that should really make the list too like Ballard’s (a plant-based local bar and restaurant), Umberto (classic Italian trattoria-style), Le Cafe Flo (traditional French cafe), or Kenny Lover (ice cream shop that does unique flavour combinations and collabs). I could go on and on.”

Your Thornbury address book: 

All Are Welcome: 887 High St, Thornbury VIC 3071

Little Tienda: 410 Station St, Thornbury VIC 3071

Monticello Cakes & Continental Gelati: 835 High St, Thornbury VIC 3071

Capers: 843 High St, Thornbury VIC 3071

Rat the Cafe: 72 Wales St, Thornbury VIC 3071

Ballard’s: 915 High St, Thornbury VIC 3054

Umberto Espresso Bar: 917 High St, Thornbury VIC 3071

Le Cafe Flo: 709 High St, Thornbury VIC 3071

Kenny Lover: 796 High St, Thornbury VIC 3071

Want more great local guides? Check out our guide to nearby Coburg, or head to the inner west for the scoop on where to go in Seddon.