Why is Erst in Ancoats so popular?

Erst is perfect for Ancoats. Just like the surrounding area, it is a contemporary, minimalist place that aims to create better every single time and wants to increase its value in people’s hearts and minds. So why is Erst so popular and at the centre of so many good reviews? Here, we explore why this is the case by examining how its food, interior design, service and events all come together to create a fine institution.

The background and design

The theme of minimalism runs through Erst’s menu setup, as well as its interior design. In a way, the dishes are similar as they look simple but full of colour, invention and taste, showing how things do not have to be complicated to be beautiful and amazing. The Head Chef is Patrick Withington, a former plumber who turned to the hard and gruelling world of professional cooking and running a kitchen. In some a way, it’s not such a surprise to hear of the head chef’s previous career because of how the food is so meticulously put together. All the components of each dish fit together just right at Erst. It is the carefulness, love and simplicity put into these dishes that allow the flavours to flow and bolden.

Erst is the sister of Trove, a chain of bakeries and cafés in Manchester, which originated in Levenshulme, south of Ancoats. In fact, there is a Trove on Murray Street very close to Erst, so you can visit both at the same time with ease. It’s not just the high quality of bread which is similar to Trove in Erst but the informality and casual setting of the place as well. Erst is designed so you don’t need to get a three-course meal. Instead, you are advised to share a few plates with others. What is great about this flexibility is that you can get just the right amount you need to fill your belly easily.

The food

Firstly, the flatbread is a must try. Very much not flat, the bread is full of character and taste. As the menu changes often, there are different flatbreads available. For example, the flatbread with gremolata, flatbread with tomato or flatbread with beef fat, urfa, chilli and onion. All are beautifully grilled and at around £4 to £5, the flatbread is delicious and worth every penny.

Erst has some amazing fish dishes, too. From scrumptious grilled prawns with fermented chilli butter cooked to perfection, clams also with fermented chilli butter and sea bream kudo served with blood orange and chilli. The chilli goes extremely well with seafood and the way all the dishes are cooked and served makes sure all the flavours flow fluently.

Always on the evening menu is the Gilda, a must try at just £2. The Gilda is Nocellara olives, guindillas and cantabrian anchovies. Other fantastic dishes include the watermelon, cucumber and feta salad – which is just one of the amazing salads here – and the steak tartare and tannato, which is a prime example Erst’s quality meat dishes.

Finally, the deserts. If the chocolate sorbet with olive oil and sea salt (crazy as it sounds) is on the menu, you must try it. It’s spectacular. Other dishes worth indulging in include the Bay panna cotta with greengage and the rhubarb fool and meringue.

The wine

As it’s a natural wine bar (specialising in wine which is produced with no chemicals, a step beyond organic), you can expect Erst to pay attention to the finer details when selecting its vino. Wines that could be available range from a Pinot Meunier from Wiltshire, a Valdibella from Sicily, a Podere Pradarolo Vej from Emilia Romagna and a sparkling Pinot Gris from Alsace in France. The wines suit different palates but all are of a high quality. Be sure to check the other alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks, which are specially selected, many from independent businesses.

It is no surprise once you visit why Erst won Restaurant of the Year at Manchester Food and Drink Festival or why it’s in the top 100 national restaurants, or even why it’s received a special review from The Guardian’s Jay Rayner. If the reasons mentioned in our own Spotlight feature are not enough for you to go to Erst, then we’re not sure what will be!